Jiufen Old Street - New Taipei City - narrow corridor of vendors

Nestled high in the lush hills of northeastern Taiwan, Jiufen (or Chiufen) is one of the island’s most iconic destinations — and for good reason. With its misty mountain views, lantern-lit alleyways, charming teahouses, and a fascinating past as a gold mining hub, Jiufen effortlessly transports visitors back in time while delivering a sensory feast that’s distinctly Taiwanese.

Highlights	Jiufen is Taiwan’s nostalgic mountain gem—lantern-lit lanes, tasty street food, and misty ocean views make it feel like stepping into a living painting.
Location	Ruifang District, New Taipei City, Taiwan 224

A Bit of History & Its Spirited Reputation

Jiufen’s roots run deep into Taiwan’s Japanese colonial era when it flourished during the gold rush of the late 1800s and early 1900s. At its peak, Jiufen was a bustling mining town, drawing fortune seekers from across the island and beyond. Remnants of this golden age still linger today, from the restored Shengping Theater — Taiwan’s oldest surviving cinema — to the Gold Mine Museum, which traces the town’s boom years.

But it’s Jiufen’s rumored connection to Hayao Miyazaki’s Spirited Away that has made it internationally famous in recent decades. While Studio Ghibli has never officially confirmed that Jiufen directly inspired the film’s iconic bathhouse, the red lanterns, narrow passages, and mystical atmosphere feel uncannily familiar to fans. This sense of stepping into an animated dreamscape draws crowds from all over the world, eager to walk streets that feel almost otherworldly.

Getting There: A Scenic Challenge

Getting to Jiufen is part of the adventure — and sometimes the frustration. Unlike many popular tourist spots in Taiwan, Jiufen doesn’t have a direct train line. Instead, most travelers choose between a bus ride that winds its way up the steep hills or booking a private car or group tour. We opted for a Klook tour that bundled Jiufen with stops at Yehliu Geopark and Shifen Waterfall — two other must-see destinations in northern Taiwan.

Our bus dropped us off near the Old Street entrance, but even then, we had to switch buses to reach the summit. The roads are narrow and the traffic can be heavy, so patience is essential. Still, the journey rewards with spectacular coastal views along the way.

First Impressions: Crowded But Captivating

Stepping into Jiufen’s Old Street is like stepping into a living painting — and you won’t be alone. Even on weekdays, the entrance is usually jam-packed with day-trippers, local families, and curious international travelers. We arrived on a clear day and found the crowds thick, but the vibrant buzz only added to the charm.

Old Street itself is a narrow passage lined with food stalls, tea houses, dessert shops, and souvenir boutiques. It’s technically only a few hundred meters long, and you could walk straight through in 15 minutes — if you weren’t constantly stopping to sample local delicacies, peek at handcrafted trinkets, or snap photos of the bright red lanterns overhead.

On one side of the street, several paths open up to panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean below — a breathtaking reminder that this quaint village sits high above Taiwan’s rugged northeastern coastline.

Food & Drink: A Mixed Bag of Bites

Jiufen is a food lover’s paradise — if you know where to look. The aroma of steamed buns, grilled squid, and freshly brewed tea fills the air, tempting visitors at every turn.

We stopped for a quick meal at a tiny fish ball soup shop. Watching the staff hand-roll the fish balls and dumplings was part of the charm. The soup itself, with glass noodles and tender fish balls, was a comforting choice — simple, clean, and satisfying.

Near the entrance, we tried a well-known shrimp ball stall that always has a line. While the texture was good — springy and fresh — the flavor didn’t leave a lasting impression. It was tasty enough but not mind-blowing.

Truthfully, the endless choice of snacks can be overwhelming, and it’s easy to stumble upon average bites alongside real gems. For the best experience, many recommend saving time to sit down at one of Jiufen’s famous teahouses.

Teahouses: A Step Back in Time

Jiufen’s teahouses are legendary, and for many visitors, sipping oolong while gazing over the misty hills is the highlight of the trip. The most iconic — Amei Tea House — is instantly recognizable with its red lanterns cascading down the hillside. It’s famously photogenic and often cited as the real-life bathhouse from Spirited Away (though again, officially unconfirmed).

Dozens of other charming spots dot the Old Street and the winding stairs that branch off from it. These teahouses often serve up exquisite local teas — high-mountain oolong and fragrant pu-erh — along with delicate snacks like taro cakes or tea eggs. Sadly, we didn’t get a chance to settle in for tea this time, but peeking through the wooden facades and catching glimpses of patrons enjoying their cups was enough to inspire us to come back next time with more time to linger.

Beyond Food: Small Museums & Nostalgia

Beyond snacking and tea sipping, Jiufen offers small but intriguing slices of its mining history. The Gold Mine Museum, perched just outside the main drag, provides insight into the era that shaped Jiufen’s identity. Original tunnels, mining relics, and stories of the people who lived and worked here paint a vivid picture of life during the gold rush.

The Shengping Theater — a lovingly restored movie house dating back to the 1910s — is another nostalgic stop. It’s Taiwan’s oldest surviving cinema, once the entertainment hub for local miners. Today, visitors can duck inside to see old projectors and vintage posters or even catch classic film screenings.

Jiufen’s Unique Atmosphere: Why It Endures

There’s a reason Jiufen remains one of Taiwan’s must-visit spots, even with the crowds. Its nostalgic blend of Japanese-era architecture, timeless lanterns, stone steps, and panoramic sea views creates a dreamy atmosphere that feels both real and cinematic.

Whether or not you’re a Studio Ghibli fan, you can’t help but feel that Jiufen is a place where stories live and breathe in the narrow alleys and weathered walls. Even when packed shoulder-to-shoulder with other travelers, the town’s charm shines through in details: the smell of tea leaves, the flicker of lantern light against the evening mist, the chatter of shopkeepers and visitors alike.

Final Thoughts

Jiufen is not without its drawbacks. It’s busy, it can feel cramped, and its popularity means you’ll rarely have its winding lanes to yourself. Yet it’s also enchanting, evocative, and deeply memorable — a place where old Taiwan, Japanese colonial influence, and a sprinkle of animated magic meet high above the Pacific.

If you’re planning a trip, bring patience, curiosity, and an appetite for tea and local treats. Better yet, carve out enough time to duck into a teahouse, sit by a window, and let Jiufen’s spell do its work while the lanterns flicker to life around you.

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